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Completely mounted wall mural on smooth wall.

Installation manuals for wallpaper

Dry fitting - peel & stick

Short version & download

Self-adhesive wall murals mounted on a clean, dry and completely smooth wall. Allow the panels to acclimatise flat in the room (preferably 24-48 hours). Lay the panels in order and check that everything looks right before you start. Draw a vertical guide line with a spirit level - the first panel must sit perfectly straight. Install the panels from left to right, edge-to-edge (no overlap). Peel off the protective paper little by little, attach at the top first, and smooth from centre and out with a squeegee/palm. Do not stretch the material. Trim to finish with a ruler and sharp knife when all panels are up. Bubbles: smooth out - if necessary, carefully prick with a needle.

Download installation manual (PDF)

Wet mounting with wall adhesive

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Full installation manual

Table of contents

1. Before you start

Time spent (approx.):

  • 1-2 m²: 1-2 hours

  • 3-8 m²: 2-4 hours

  • Large walls: plan plenty of time and breaks

Recommended staffing:

  • 1 person is fine on smaller surfaces

  • 2 people recommended on large panels and high walls (much easier to keep straight and avoid creases).

Here's what you need:

  • Clean, smooth wall (see “Check the wall”)

  • Good lighting

  • Calm working environment (stress = crooked joints)

2. Recommended tool

  • Father / laser - for vertical reference line (critical for first panel).

  • Measuring tape - for line placement and height/width control.

  • Pencil - light-coloured, faint marks (do not press hard).

  • Squeegee / plastic scraper - presses out air and provides good edge adhesion.

  • Sharp wallpaper/Stanley knife + extra blades - Clean cuts. Blunt leaves = tears.

  • Straightening splint/ruler - for safe trimming along the roof/moulding.

  • Microfibre cloth + mild detergent - Dust/grease is the enemy of the adhesive.

  • (Optional) Needle - for microbubbles that appear afterwards (use gently).

3. Check the wall

Wall requirements:

  • Completely smooth, firm and dust-free surface. Self-adhesive wallpaper should not be installed on texture.

  • Clean and dry (no grease, soap residue, grinding dust).

  • Solid paint/plaster: nothing that flakes or “chalks” when you go over it with your hand.

  • Freshly painted wall: wait until the paint has hardened properly. The rule of thumb from several manufacturers is up to approx. 4 weeks (check the paint manufacturer's recommendation).

Not recommended

  • Strie, textured plaster, orange peel, patterned wallpaper, raw plaster, porous/untreated surfaces.

  • Surfaces with silicone residue, recently washed with a lot of soap/degreasing without good rinsing

  • Highly moisture-prone zones (shower zone / constant condensation).

4. Preparation

  1. Clear floors and walls: remove pictures, nails, covers, furniture slightly out.

  2. Wash the wall: mild detergent + clean water. Wipe dry afterwards. The wall must be completely dry before installation.

  3. The panels must be acclimatised flat in the room.

    • Lay them out on the floor/table, in order.

    • Let them lie still (often recommended 24-48 hours).

  4. Check everything before installing: correct number of panels, no damage/manufacturing errors, and that the motif is correct. If something looks wrong: stop before installation.

5. Step-by-step assembly

We deliver wall murals panelled and labelled in order, with installation sketch. Panel width may vary (often approx. 50-90 cm).

Step 1 - Plan your starting point

  • Find the corner you want to start at. Most common: start on the left and work towards the right (follow the numbering).

  • Don't rely on the corner/roof moulding being plumb. You will create your own plumb line.

Step 2 - Draw a plumb line 

  • Measure in one panel width from the corner (possibly according to the sketch) and draw a vertical line with spirit level/laser.

  • This line is the “bottom line” for first panel. (If the first is skewed, everything is skewed).

Step 3 - Prepare the first panel

  • Take panel 1. Peel off the protective paper just a little at the top (approx. 20-30 cm or 1/3), not all at once.

Step 4 - Attach at the top first

  • Place the upper part on the wall and align with the plumb line.

  • When the top is positioned correctly: press down lightly.

Step 5 - Smooth correctly (centre → out)

  • Smooth from centre and out towards the edges, and downwards in stages. Use a squeegee or palm with even pressure.

  • Avoid stretching the material as you work. Let it “fall” naturally.

Step 6 - Continue downwards

  • Pull off some more baking paper, secure and smooth. Repeat until you are down.

  • If you get a crease: gently lift back and lay down again (do not tear).

Step 7 - Next panel: edge-to-edge

  • The panels should normally edge-to-edge butts (do not overlap).

  • Align the motif in the joint before pressing hard.

  • Smooth the joint, but not “overworked” it (too much rubbing can leave marks).

Step 8 - Work in the right order

  • Continue panel by panel, from left to right, following the numbering.

Step 9 - Wait with trimming

  • Trim to finish, when all panels are in place and the motif is in position.

6. Corners, doors/windows, sockets

Internal corners

  • Don't rely on the corner being straight.

  • Before pushing hard in the corner: work your way in with a rake and small movements.

  • Let the wallpaper go 1-2 cm around the corner instead of “forcing” a perfect edge in a crooked corner. This reduces the risk of it slipping.

Around door and window frames

  • Fit past the opening as if it wasn't there.

  • Make a rough cut (e.g. a “V”/diagonal) in the area, carefully fold in towards the frame, and trim neatly afterwards with a straight edge.

Sockets / switches 

  • Switch off the power on the course if you will be working close to open boxes.

  • Unscrew the cover, mount the wallpaper above, make a small cross-cut in the centre and fold to the sides. Trim carefully. Screw the cover back on.

7. Finishing work

  1. Final smoothing: Go over the entire wall with even pressure, especially along joints and edges.

  2. Trim: use straight rail + new, sharp blade. Change blades often (cheaper than regretting).

  3. Waiting time / curing:

    • The adhesive gets a better grip after a while. Avoid harsh washing and a lot of “poking” during the first 24 hours.

    • 24 hours of rest is a sensible minimum rule at normal room temperature.

 

8. Troubleshooting (problem → cause → solution)

problem

Common cause

Solution

Joints get gaps

 First panel not vertical / you “pull” the material

Reposition early. Use a plumb line. Do not stretch.

The wallpaper releases at the edges

The wall is dusty/greasy, or has texture

Take down relevant area, wash wall, let dry completely. Consider priming on porous surfaces.

Air bubbles under the wallpaper

Smoothing the wrong way / too fast assembly

Smooth from the centre outwards. Small bubbles: gently prick with a needle and press out air.

Tears in the edge when trimming

Blunt blade / too much pressure

Change the blade. Cut with a straight edge and smooth strokes.

Motif “swimming” in joint (mismatch)

Panel laid at a slight angle / you have stretched the material

Lift and adjust while you are still early in the process. Avoid pulling on the wallpaper.

The surface gets marks

You rub hard with the squeegee/cloth

Use even pressure, do not “scrub”.

Wallpaper does not adhere well in general

Freshly painted wall not hardened / wrong substrate

Wait longer after painting (often up to about 4 weeks). Make sure the wall is completely smooth and primed if necessary.

9. Maintenance and cleaning

  • Wipe off with lightly moistened microfibre cloth.

  • Avoid abrasive cleaners and coarse sponges.

  • The product is described as splash-proof.

  • ASSUMPTION: If necessary, mild soap can be used, but always test on a small corner first.

10. Removal / dismantling

  • Wallpaper can often be removed by starting in a corner and dragging slowly at a low angle, but it can take paint or putty - especially on weak/porous surfaces or freshly painted walls.

  • If you have to remove: work calmly, preferably with a little heat (hairdryer on low/medium) and patience. Stop if the wall starts to slip.

11. Frequently asked questions

1) How smooth does the wall need to be?
So smooth that you can't feel the texture when you run your hand over it. Texture is one of the main reasons why peel & stick releases.

2) Can I mount on a freshly painted wall?
Yes, but only when the paint is properly cured. Many manufacturers recommend waiting up to about 4 weeks (see paint manufacturer).

3) Do I need to prime the wall?
If the wall is porous, “dusty”, or has uneven absorbency: yes, it's often smart for better adhesion.

4) Why do the panels have to lie flat before installation?
To reduce creasing and acclimatise to temperature/humidity - for neater joints and better adhesion.

5) In what order do I assemble?
Follow the numbering and mount normally left → right.

6) Should the panels overlap?
No, normally they should be edge-to-edge without overlap.

7) Can I lift and reset if I miss?
Yes, you can usually reposition by lifting calmly and laying down again - but do it early and without stretching the material.

8) When should I trim?
When all panels are fitted and adjusted. This prevents you from “locking in” too early.

9) What do I do with air bubbles?
Smooth from the centre outwards. Small bubbles afterwards: prick with a needle and gently press out air.

10) Can I install in a bathroom?
ASSUMPTION: Splashes/normal moisture can go, but avoid shower zones and surfaces with constant condensation. The product is described as splash-proof, not “shower-proof”.

11) What if the wall is slightly skewed (not plumb)?
Therefore, use a plumb line for the first panel. PIGS also recommends extra margin when ordering, so you have something to go on.

12) How is the wall mural delivered?
Divided into panels, labelled in sequence, with assembly sketch - delivered on a roll in sturdy packaging.

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